I love hot springs, and fortunately I have a friend who is similarly inclined. So, when I told her I wanted to visit the Japanese-style hot springs at Tassajara Zen Center, she was totally game. We were going to go up for the day, since you can use the baths by paying a small fee (and it even includes lunch!). Then we found out that you have to drive 16 miles on a dirt road that’s notoriously rough to get there. Luckily, they have overnight accommodations and a four-wheel-drive shuttle. The trip was on.

There are a lot of wonderful things about Tassajara. It’s down in a beautiful, narrow valley in the Ventana Wilderness (see my photo from a walk in the wilderness at left) and is laid out along a bustling creek with great swimming holes; there’s also a pool. Zen practitioners who devote themselves to the study of this Eastern religion live here year-round, which gives the whole place a mellow vibe, even in the summer season when non-practitioning guests show up in droves. Guests can even take meditation instruction from a monk in the center’s traditional temple, called a Zendo. The place is well known for its delicious, comforting meals (the lunch, with hearty soup, fresh salads, premixed iced lattes and tea, and plenty of warm-from-the-oven bread, topped off by homemade cookies for dessert, is not to be missed); they’re served communally and you’re guaranteed to meet nice and interesting people over your food.

But while all of this is great, nothing compares to the hot springs. It is the absolute best thing about the place. Open to the outdoors, it is the ultimate in relaxation, day or night, because you can watch the breeze blow through the trees or check out the stars while you soak. There’s no chlorine smell, just the scent of the forest air and the pools’ natural sulfur aroma. And it’s segregated by sex, as most are in Japan, so you can feel comfortable dipping in the nude (and everyone does).

There’s one very hot tiled pool inside, with huge windows on two sides, open to look out on the creek. Next to that is a big wooden deck with plenty of room for lounging in the sun or under the shade of an umbrella. Across the deck on the other side is a smaller, slightly cooler pool with a few rocks in it for sitting and relaxing. There is short path from there down to the creek, where you can soak your feet in and splash yourself with the cool, rushing water after taking a turn in the hot pool. There’s also a sauna. Shower facilities are as modern and up to date as any spa, with great smelling biodegradable toiletries from Marin’s EO. There are chairs and yoga mats to lay on and no one talks much, so it’s peaceful. We went four times while we were there and it was totally worth the rates (it cost about $240 each for overnight accommodations, transportation, and meals). Massage is available for guests at a rate of $125.

I was so excited to surprise my husband with massages this weekend. I’m terrible at keeping a secret, and I was shocked I was able to hold onto this one until we checked in at Costanoa Lodge and Camp, when I blurted out, “I have a surprise for you. We’re going for massages at 5.” I sort of felt like I was on a reality show, like “The Bachelor,” and the camera was on me as I announced what our date would be for that evening. He was suitably surprised and happy about the whole thing.

The actual spa at Costanoa is basically a waiting room on one side of the entry hall behind the reception area, with a few treatment rooms beyond; all the decor is very simple and neutral, hardly noticeable, really. On the other side of the entry hall was our treatment room, the duet room, which had a shower room in it as well. We had massages in the same room once before, in Desert Hot Springs at the famous Two Bunch Palms. The room was open to the air, we were still just dating, and I remember it all as very romantic.

This time, I barely knew he was still in the room and I think he felt the same for me. I chose the Costanoa Integrative Massage for us, mostly because it was the most affordable option on the menu, but I loved the combination of techniques the therapist used. This massage intends to blend long strokes of Swedish with elements of shiatsu, reflexology, and cranio-sacral therapy.

Hubby and I compared notes and our massages were different but we both liked what our technicians did. Mine gave me several delicious scalp rubs; for some reason my scalp holds a lot of my tension, so this was perfect. She also pulled on my right arm numerous times, something I always ask my husband to do when my wrists are hurting me from all my typing. He got a lot of neck work, since he’s been working on the laptop. All in all I had only one complaint: I wish I had booked it for more than 60 minutes.

Atmosphere – B
Reception/Customer Service – A
Treatment/Technician/Products – A
Value – B
Overall Relaxation Quotient: A-

I know DIY home spa treatments are all the rage these days (more on that on Monday), but sometimes you need a little visit with a pro. That’s how I felt in December, and with some birthday money burning a hole in my savings account, I decided it was time for a spa day. Kabuki Springs & Spa has been on my list for years, and I’m a super fan of the Joie de Vivre boutique hotel chain, which owns it. My college roommate was game for a little authentic Japanese style communal bathing (all nude, with strangers!).

The set-up of the large, open bathing area is so relaxing. They encourage no talking and the lights are dimmed. There are teak chaises to rest on and these neat low Japanese-style bathing stations to wash yourself before you take the waters. I loved the easy access to cool spa water with lemon and cucumber (you’re encouraged to reuse the same disposable cup to help the environment) and towels (yeah, there’s a sign about not taking too many of those, either). I just wished there were more hooks for hanging said towels so I didn’t have to parade across the room in the buff as much.

After experiencing the warm and cold pools, sauna, and steam room, we headed back to the lockers to be called for our treatments. The seated waiting area was crowded, but other than that and the occasional wait for the bathroom, it seemed like there was plenty of space for everyone. And the bonus is that if you’re willing to stand in line for a bit you can visit the baths for just $25. The reception is well trained in separating those with treatment appointments, who don’t wait, from people who want space in the baths. It all goes pretty smoothly.

As for my facial, I enjoyed it and thought the esthy had some good tips, but it wasn’t the best I’ve ever had. On the other hand, my friend was blown away by her Herbal Renewal treatment. All in all I felt completely rung out and relaxed after our four or so hours at Kabuki. Top it off with a tasty lunch in the nearby Fillmore District (we went to La Med), and I couldn’t have been happier.

Atmosphere – A
Reception/Customer Service – A
Treatment/Technician/Products – B+
Value – A+
Overall Relaxation Quotient: A